Indonesia
Indonesia lies in the middle of the large marine
Indo-Pacific basin. This region extends from the
Indian Ocean waters off East Africa all the way
to the Hawaiian and Marquises Islands in the
East South Pacific. The central area, the waters
around the Indonesian and Philippine Islands, is
the lest well-known, and much scientific work
still needs to be done. In tropical waters, where
the temperature and salinity are right, corals
seem to "blossom" into gardens, with an amazing
variety of forms and colors.
Growing corals form reefs, functioning as homes
for whole communities of marine life, they also
provide nourishment and nurseries for thousands
of fish, shellfish, sponges, crayfish and marine
plants, while protecting shorelines and creating
islands in the process.
Whether scuba diving (snorkeling) or
deep-diving with breathing equipment, or
exploring a reef it is an unforgettable
experience. Indonesia's smaller islands are often
surrounded by reefs, and many are inaccessible
and still undeveloped as far as marine tourism is
concerned. The single exception is Pulau Putri in the Thousand Islands, northwest of
Jakarta. Other good places: Pulau Peucang and Panaitan off Java's westernmost
peninsula in the Ujung Kulon Reserve; coral reefs off the Tangkoko Batuangus Reserve
in North Sulawesi; Pulau Kasa near Ambon in Maluku, off the Bali Barat Reserve, in Bali.
The Riau archipelago also offers some excitement to divers of a different kind: coral
reefs are here combined with the interest of exploring sunken ships and wrecks from
World War II.
The Riau Archipelago
The wrecks which dot the Riau waters, so close to Singapore, are strictly World War II
vintage, but they still have an air of mystery. Many were sunk by the Japanese in
1941. Riau is easily accessible by boat from Singapore, from Pekanbaru in SUMATRA or
from Pontianak in West Kalimantan. Good beaches and coral can be found near Bintan
island, but for divers and coral enthusiasts lor historians, archaeologists or
anthropologists, for that matter) there are also endless opportunities to explore the
whole Riau archipelago. The islands are small and close to one another, and the wrecks
are usually in shallow waters. Island hopping is easy and inexpensive. Boats in Tanjung
Pinang are easily available.
Pulau Peucong and Pulau
Panaitan
Both of these sizeable islands
are part of the Ujung Kulon
nature reserve, and lie just off
Java's western end. Peucang
has two rest houses, a permit to
enter the reserve and rest house
accommodation must be
obtained at the Nature
Conservation Directorate's Head
Office in Bogor, or the local
office in Labuan. Both islands are
reached via Labuan, a town on
Java's west coast where there
are fishing boats. It's wise to make firm arrangements for return trips at the same time,
and to make some allowances for bad weather. No food is available on the island, but
the reserve wardens on Peucang (in radio communication with the Nature Conservation
office in Labuan) will provide visitors with water, bedding, cooking facilities, and guides.
There is good snorkeling and diving all the way around Peucang, with many ledges to
explore on the northern reef. More spectacular are the "under water cliffs" of Tanjung
Layar where the new and old lighthouses are perched on. Tanjung Layar is only a short
boat ride from Peucang and well worth the trip. Spear fishing is not permitted within the
reserve.
Panaitan Island is uninhabited. Day trips to the southern beaches, about 1 hour from
Peucang are recommended. Panaitan has extensive reef platforms, particularly
attractive to explore on foot at low air pasang tides.
Kepulauan Seribu
Kepulauan Seribu or the Thousand Islands is a group of small Islands scattered in the
Bay of Jakarta. Actually a total of 110 islands, they are within easy reach from Jakarta
by boat or chartered aircraft. Several islands have been developed as tourist resorts or
for recreational purposes, where there are bird and marine sanctuaries. The northern
part of these islands have been zoned as a national marine park to preserve its
underwater resources and beauty.
About 90 km from Jakarta is the Pulau Putri, Pulau Pelangi, Pulau Melintang, Petondan
which have upmarket accommodation, restaurants, a dive shop and boats for hire.
Nearby, the islands of Melinjo, Papa Theo and Sepa have been developed for divers and
budget tourists. Transport is available by private speedboats, inter - island ferries or
charter flights which land on a grassy strip on Pulau Panjang. The scenery among so
many green islands as well as the coral is beautiful. Bookings can be made with Pulau
Putri Paradise in the Setia budi building 1, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said. There are also other
agencies which offer sailing and diving tours.
Bali
Good skin diving areas among the reefs are off the coast of West Bali and those near
Padangbai in eastern Bali, and at Nusa Lembongan on Nusa Penida, the large island off
Bali's southeastern shores. There is also a wreck, that of the S.S. Liberty, only 40
metres oh the beach at Tulamben, near Kubu. Fish sheltering in the wreck make them
so tame that they will flock to divers.
Komodo
Komodo is unique because it offers two totally different marine environments. In the north we experience
the warm clear waters that flow from the Flores and Banda seas. Typical of most tropical locations
throughout the world. The hard coral reefs are extensive and in pristine condition. To the south, we
encounter cooler waters that flow from deep in the Indian Ocean. It is not unusual to encounter whales,
whale sharks, mantas, sunfish and other planktonic feeders during dives on the southern sites.
Upwelling, caused by deep ocean currents colliding with the continental shelf force an endless supply of
planktonic food towards the surface resulting in a rich coral gardens and an exceptional quantity of
marine life. The confluence of these two distinct marine ecospheres is responsible for the remarkable
diversity found in the waters of Komodo.
The waters that surround the island are turbulent and teeming with unparalleled marine life. A marine
reserve, it is largely undocumented and remains largely unexplored. During our last voyage to Komodo
we discovered several additional world class dive sites which were added to our list of many. The dives boasted schooling
hammerheads and large schools of pelagic fish.
North Sulawesi
Within easy reach from Manado, North Sulawesi, are
good beaches and coral reefs, and plenty of speedboats
or sailboats for hire. Rent a boat to go to the nature
reserve of Tangkoko Batuangus. The corals are
exceptional and accommodation can be found in Batu
Putih village. Beach landings are not uniformly easy,
depending on the time of the year.
The Directorate General of Forest Protection and Nature
Conservation (PHPA) has an office in Manado. A permit is
necessary to enter the Tangkoko Dua Saudara Nature
Reserve. The coral reefs which ring the islands of
Bunaken are among the most spectacular in Indonesia
and have been rated by internationally experienced
divers as on a par with some of the great reefs of the
world. The marine population is among the densest of
Indonesia and is of unequalled variety. Along the
dramatic drop-offs, riddled with grottos, fissures and
arches, downward visibility extends to 30 metres or more and the contours of the reef
formations offer limitless diving opportunities for snorkels and scuba enthusiasts. The
islands can be reached within half an hour by motorized outrigger from Malalayang
Beach, the jump-off point south of Manado.
Malalayang Beach has a dive-master with licenses from both the Indonesian and Sub
aquatic Sport Association (POSSI) and the Paris-based Confederation Mondiale des
Activities Subaquatiques (CMAS). Scuba equipment can be hired there, but it is
advisable to bring along personal items such as depth gauges and decompression
tables. Both are of particular importance, as there is a decompression chamber in
Manado.
Maluku
Ambon has to be considered from the marine enthusiast's point of view, more as a
jumping off point than as a destination, since it is accessible by air and lies in the heart
of many interesting island groups. For the adventurous and the self sufficient, the
underwater islands of Maluku are magnificent.
There are about a thousand island islands in the region, and most have excellent
beaches, reefs and seascapes, almost anywhere less than a day's journey away from
the population centers. The snorkeling is superb. Boats easily available for hire.
Pulau Pombo and Pulau Kasa are two small island-marine reserves near Ambon. Best
time of the year is from September to March. Spells of rough weather can be expected
between April and July. A word of caution is necessary: some corals are very fragile
and break under flippers. Some sting badly, like the yellow-tipped fire coral. On sandy
reef platforms, watch out for the long back spines of the sea urchins. Several small
islands in this archipelago are still uninhabited.
Banda Neira
Southeast of the islands of Maluku is the small group of islands of Banda, the original
nutmeg island. Banda Neira offers crystal clear water, full of coral gardens and tropical
fish. There is a small hotel where diving gear is available. The island of Banda Neira is
seeped in history, starting from 1312 when the first Portuguese arrived on its shores,
followed by the English and the Dutch, all eater for the golden nutmeg trade. Some of
the remnants of this period still remain. Banda Neira is an hour's flight from Ambon.
Ichthyology
Indonesia is rich in ornamental fish species, which are exported to the United States,
Japan and Europe. Among these beautiful marine aquarium fish species are the
Amphiprion, the Dascyllus, the red colored Labrida and the Gorisaygula found plenty in
the waters around the Bali Strait. The Balistoides niger, is found in abundance in North
Sulawesi. Apart from fish, the waters around many islands, especially in the more virgin
areas in the eastern parts of the archipelago, offer a rich variety of conches and shells
and one of the world's most beautiful conches, the so called "Glory of the Sea". In
waters around nature reserves, however, the collecting of fish, shells and other objects
of marine life is prohibited.
Surfing
Indonesia is ideal for surfing all year round. Some areas are
the best by strong shore hugging currents which, while not
bothering the experienced surfer, make them unsuitable for
beginners and swimmers. Java's southern coast is longer than
California's Pacific coastline. Long sandy beaches separated
by rocky headlands or occasional peninsulas are plentiful
where conditions are excellent for surfing. A good place for beginners, but still
satisfactory for the more advanced is the beach near Batu Keras, west of the nature
reserve and local resort of Pangandaran. Small but steady right-handers roll in over a
sandy bottom.
Boogie boards are good fun here too. Batu Keras is about an hour's drive west of
Pangandaran village, where there is ample accommodation. Avoid the bay between
Batu Keras and the Pangandaran peninsula, as strong currents run parallel to the shore
except in the sheltered cove near the reserve itself.
Another area rapidly becoming
increasingly popular with surfers is at
Pelabuhan Ratu, a three hour drive from
either Jakarta or Bandung, situated on
Java's southern coast, the Indian Ocean.
A few miles from this fisherman's port
going west on a scenic coastal road with
wild beauty on your right and the
impressive ocean waves on your left,
you will notice all kinds of adequate
facilities. But the best place to go to is
beyond the 4 star Samudra Beach Hotel,
towards the village of Cisolok where
beach surrounding are lovely, distinctly tropical and where the ocean is at best. Its
relative proximity from Jakarta or Bandung has certainly been a major factor which gave
rise to general growth in this area where prices are still very moderate and its seafood
excellent.
The western beaches of the Blambangan peninsula, Java's easternmost extension have
also attracted the attention of surfers. The whole peninsula is a nature reserve, known
for its sea turtle nesting beaches and its good waves but little else. Most surfers reach
it by boat from Bali.
With its greater share of the tourist traffic, especially from Australia, the needs of
sporting tourists are more obviously catered to in Bali than elsewhere in Indonesia.
Good places for surfing in the west monsoon (October to March) are 0 Dua and Sanur
Between April and September, Kuta Beach is better, and for advanced and serious
practitioners of the art there is also Ulu Watu on the west coast of the peninsula.
